Suvios Pizzeria: Our Most Authentic Find Yet

A sweltering summer day isn't the ideal time for the homestyle Italian American food at . As I stepped up to the counter earlier this week, the first thing I noticed was the heat of the kitchen.

But after I ordered, settled in a booth and began to cool off, I began to notice the touches that make this place a favorite among Morristown residents.

Little in the dining room has changed since the advent of flat-screen televisions, which means no there's news or sports blaring in the background—or in your face— to distract from the dining experience. Just some Thelma Houstona and Olivia Newton John playing in the background.

A few tables sit in the main area as you walk in, but I opted for the cooler, adjacent dining room, which has eight booths, each large enough to squeeze in about six people. Little golden fixtures hang above each booth, which has salt, pepper, oregano, crushed red pepper and “pizza garlic” within arms reach.

One wall is lined with mirrors; most others, with wood paneling. In the back of the room, a classy, old-fashioned neon sign announces the name of the pizzeria. Windows look out onto Washington Street. The menu is one of those decades-old ones, with white plastic letters that the owners move around amid a blue background to spell out their dishes, like “veal parmigiana,” and “calzone.”

And best of all, a few of the guys behind the counter speak with heavy Italian accents. This looks like the real thing.

A sign on the menu tells us this is the “real pizza of Morristown.” People online seem to agree, , and the employees must like it, because I saw one ready to sit down to two plain slices on his break.

I'll take people's word for it on a pizza. I don't like ordering a slice that's sitting under glass, and while I have a large appetite, I'm not up for ordering a whole pie.

Instead, I opted for the meatball sandwich, with cheese. Brought to my booth on a yellow plate, the sandwich consisted of two meatballs, each cut in half on a long Italian roll, topped with melted mozzarella and red sauce.

My server asked if I needed a fork and knife, but I could tell by looking at this well-made sandwich that it wasn't going to fall apart in my hands.

The meatballs appeared dense and heavy, but as soon as I bit into the sandwich, I corrected myself. These were light. Seasoned but not spicy, I'm sure they were made by whomever was speaking in an accent behind the counter. The sauce had a little sweetness to it, and it didn't overwhelm or drown the sandwich.

The heat had whittled away at my appetite, and as I ordered, I really wasn't as excited about this dish as I should have been. But the sandwich went down easy, without much hesitation, and I enjoyed every bite.

In the past few weeks, we've reviewed , and now Suvios. I'd say each week I'm more pleased than the last.