Business & Tech

Tomato Pie: It's Not 'Pizza,' It's Not Meant to Be

Popularized in our state capitol, this take on cheese, bread and sauce is a welcome addition.

I like pizza. Who doesn't?

For me, the gold standard of the classic Friday night menu item for many American families has–and will always be–Red Bank Pizza. Growing up in Middletown, Red Bank Pizza was a phone call away from pizza nirvana. Now, on the other side of Middletown and known by its family name––it still draws me back anytime I am in town.

But, that's pizza. Dough, sauce, cheese, maybe some toppings (make mine mushroom and onion. But, please, oh please, no canned mushrooms. That's just cheap and lazy). For some, the preferred order of preparation should be: dough, cheese and sauce. That's called a "tomato pie."

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The legendary DeLorenzo's in Trenton has created what many consider its own gold standard for tomato pies. Now, Tomato Pie of Morristown hopes to keep all of those willing to drive the hour or so to our state capitol right here at home and in their new South Street restaurant.

But, I'll be honest: DeLorenzo's did not wow me. Granted, I ate there only once, and at their nearby (to Trenton) Robbinsville location, but I couldn't see what the fuss was about. Some are gobsmacked by this opinion, others know what I mean.

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So, I went into my Tomato Pie of Morristown experience with low-ish expectations. I expected a good meal, but did not expect I would suddenly prefer tomato pies over pizza anytime soon.

After eating there, this remains the case. But, hey, that was pretty good–certainly better than what I had down in Robbinsville.

Though the tomato pie has humble beginnings, Tomato Pie's beginnings lie in the bustling downtown Morristown scene. Which means the place is fancier than what one may seek if they're just looking for a quick slice. The pizza, which my friend and I ordered with fresh garlic, onions and mushrooms (thankfully, fresh) was thin and crispy. The slices came in several sizes, as if the chef just sliced from one end to the other and then a few times down the middle. 

As advertised, the cheese was first to the dough, which is then cooked briefly, then the sauce and toppings are added before going back in for one final cook. These tomatoes were extremely flavorful. Even good pizza sauces don't necessarily highlight the tomato part of the sauce; they tend to highlight the spices. Here, the freshness of the star stands out.

Because of the extra crispiness of the crust, the pie was light. My friend noted how a regular pizza can sometimes make her feel like there's a brick in her stomach if she eats too much. Not the case here. We managed to finished the whole large over a bottle of Malbec (Tomato Pie is a BYO).

Overall, our meal was enjoyable. Our arugula salads–served atop sliced tomatoes, with granny smith apples, walnuts and crumbled bleu cheese, tossed in a raspberry vinaigrette–also was a pleasing start. But, at $11 for each, our appetizers cost more than the main course. This seemed a little absurd.

I hesitate to mention the service, which, while mostly adequate, was painfully slow at times. We came in with a bottle, and it took about 10 minutes before someone came to open it for us and bring glasses. There were some other diners inside, and several outside, but it wouldn't be considered "hopping." Still, open less than two weeks, I'll reserve judgment.

In New Jersey, it's pretty difficult to not throw a rock (or a slice of pizza) in any direction and not hit at least two pizza places. Still, Tomato Pie brings something a little different to the Italian dining scene. It doesn't knock Chiafullo's from its pedestal for me, but it has made me a believer in the magic of a good tomato pie.


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