Business & Tech

Urban Table: No One Will Be Asking, 'Where's the Beef?'

They serve a delicious burger, between a bun that just cannot handle all that carne.

I was a little skeptical when word first came down that Harvest Restaurants, owners of the popular that debuted several months ago at 40 Park, would be opening a second restaurant right next to Roots. Seriously? Isn't one enough? Aren't you going to be cannibalizing your own business? What would set them apart?

Upon visiting last week, it was evident that they and their next-door neighbor were two sides of the same coin, with similar style touches, atmosphere and the like. However, like a coin, those two sides aren't exactly the same.

First of all, Harvest Restaurants has indicated Urban Table would be more of an all-day restaurant, serving breakfast, lunch and dinner, with an emphasis on comfort foods like burgers and shakes, as well as an effort to purchase as much of their product from local sources as possible.

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So, it was on my recent visit to Urban Table that I decided to try one of those burgers, their signature "Urban Table Burger," with carmelized onions and gruyere cheese. I started, however, with a cold beer from the tap, courtesy of Trap Rock Restaurant and Brewery, of Berkeley Heights, one of Harvest Restaurants other locations.

My waitress was a very bubbly, attentive sort, who answered any questions I had as I sipped my beer and waited for my appetizer, a plate of warmed pita triangles served with homemade hummus, beet salad and tzatziki. It was evident that Urban Table, having only opened in the last couple weeks, was still in start-up mode and looking to make sure any comments about the food were noted, any issues quickly addressed.

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While I nibbled on my appetizer–which was excellent, by the way, the pita tasting fresh, the hummus like it was truly made on-site–an afternoon server meeting was taking place just feet from me, close enough that my nosy ear caught snatches of their marching orders. Sushi sales, apparently, were at record numbers, while sales of shakes were not where they should be. "Please sell more shakes, or we'll have to throw the shake machine onto the street," the person giving the briefing said. A comment was made about something that apparently didn't please the task master, as they noted anyone doing that again would be "fired on the spot." Ouch.

Finally, it was time for the main course. Having had the entire appetizer, I was feeling slightly full, a testament to the portions offered here. But, the burger was too tempting to just nibble and then take away. It was juicy, very juicy. So juicy, in fact, it made quick work of the soft potato bun (the kind often used in backyard barbecues) holding together all of that meaty, juicy wonderfulness. Halfway through the sandwich, the bun had become little more than two soft, wet spots for my fingers to hold onto. Whether it's a matter of getting a heartier bun, or reducing the burger size (perish the thought), it was a bit of tarnish to an otherwise excellent bit of beef.

Onto the fries. Funny, , they were called "frittes." No matter. These potatoes (or po-tah-toes) were just as boring here as they were there. Someone I saw recently who had eaten there as well said, fondly, they reminded her of school cafeteria fries. Well, if you're into that sort of thing ...

But, like Shakespeare once said, "the play's the thing." The play, in this case, is the burger. And, of that, I am definitely a fan. Once Urban Table gets all its ducks in a row, its buns replaced, its fries out of the school, they will be a champion.


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