Tashmoo: Burgers and Beer ... Not Bloody Marys

, on DeHart Street, is a handsome place. The broad polished granite bar and dark wood give it a homespun appeal. At night, the room is crowded with 20-somethings who come for the oversized burgers and frosty beers served in pint-sized glasses.

Large screen televisions dot the walls playing all sorts of sporting events. The bartenders are pleasant enough, offering a menu at lunch or one at dinner–a good way to up the charge from the mid to high priced drinks.

I’ve enjoyed their burger and they usually do a good job with simple foods. My wife is rather fond of their turkey burger, crisply grilled. Usually, I order a beer with my burger, never venturing into the realm of cocktails, evidently for good reason.

It’s hard for me to imagine ordering a simple beverage like a Bloody Mary and receiving something that is almost a parody of the famous drink. Since I’ve been writing and drinking my way around Morristown, there has been the opportunity to taste some good cocktails. Unfortunately, these have been rare and the not so good, more prevalent.

The really bad ones I’ve tried to expose as a “cautionary tale” for drinkers in Morristown, as much as the ones that are really exceptional. In my opinion and experience as a former bartender and currently a cocktail journalist, there are many ways to destroy a Bloody Mary. The easiest way to destroy this drink is to use mixers that have no flavor balance, or are one-dimensional in scope. The word "cheap" fits the bill in this case.

Tashmoo may be able to make a fine burger or turkey burger, but when it comes to cocktails, I suggest sticking to beer, and here’s why: I visited Tashmoo several times to make sure that it just wasn’t an off night or day as it is. The first time I ordered a Bloody Mary it came in a pint glass packed full of ice. Any reader who has been following my column may know my feelings on ice. I say, use less.

Then there is the glass. Tashmoo prepares their Bloody Mary in a pint sized beer glass. Again, this seems to be the procedure around town, all my begging will not change this. The drink itself on a flavor profile is lackluster. It had only one flavor and that was heat. The drink lacked any pepper, horseradish, salt, citrus or celery salt. A shake of Old Bay (sometimes appreciated) was missing and there was no garnish of celery, an olive or even a nice freshly sliced wedge of citrus. The slice of lemon that graced the side of the glass was miniscule, but without a measuring tape, I’d say by sight it is no more than 1/8th of an inch wide and dried out because the slice is so narrow. The citrus slice had no juice in it, as if it had been sliced over the weekend and left unused.

My first taste is of really cheap bitter tomato juice and quite spicy, hot sauce. I really think they use nothing more than a bottled mix. It is one dimensional, sour and cheap tasting. I’m glad I didn’t order top shelf. It would have been a real disappointment to my palate and my pocket (I was charged $ 7.50 for the pleasure).

So many bars, successful or not in their renditions of this classic drink at least make an effort to craft a nice Bloody Mary. By my several visits, I know the Bloody Mary cocktail as performed at Tashmoo is a must skip.

Recipe to Success:

According to Dale DeGroff, a world famous cocktail authority, a Bloody Mary should go as follows:

INGREDIENTS

            2 ounces vodka
            4 ounces tomato juice
            1/2 teaspoon freshly grated horseradish
            2 to 3 dashes of Worcestershire sauce
            3 dashes of Tabasco Sauce
            Pinch of coarse salt or sea salt
            Pinch of freshly ground pepper
            1/4 ounce freshly squeezed lemon juice
            Pinch of celery salt or seeds, crushed
            Wedges of lemon and lime

INSTRUCTIONS
   
Combine the vodka, tomato juice, horseradish, Worcestershire sauce, Tabasco Sauce, salt, pepper, lemon juice and celery salt in a cocktail shaker over ice, and blend. Strain over fresh ice into a highball glass (not a pint glass!). Garnish with a wedge each of lemon and lime. If you are hungry, add a tender celery stalk.